Vulcano views, Aeolian Islands

Vulcano

The Ultimate Guide to the Aeolian Island of Vulcano

I have an unwavering fondness for the Aeolian island of Vulcano and its people, partly thanks to my Italian family who had a home on Vulcano for many years. In fact, it was here that the idea for my Aeolian Adventures holidays was originally conceived and later realised.

For me, rather than a day trip destination, this is a place to stay for several days and be lulled into the island’s pace of life. Do your research beforehand into when to visit and where to stay. Then during your stay, leave time to explore on land or on the water to discover a side to the island that’s rarely seen by day trippers.

Where is Vulcano?

Of the 7 Aeolian Islands, Vulcano is the closest island to the mainland, around 45 minutes by hydrofoil from the port of Milazzo on Sicily’s north eastern coast.  The island is best known for its smouldering volcano, smoking fumaroles, wild untamed rugged nature and panoramic views.

The Aeolian island of Vulcano, together with its neighbouring islands, form part of a volcanic arc which spans over 200km, including multiple submarine volcanoes, and the area, as a whole, is the most important in the world for the study of vulcanology. The island’s name is, in fact, the origin of the European word ‘volcano’.  Its volcanic activity means that on some days you may get a whiff of sulphur in and around the port but it does depend on which way the wind’s blowing.

The island is also steeped in history and mythology.  Once home to the ancient Greeks and the Roman, Vulcano takes its name from Vulcan, the Roman god of fire, the blacksmith and warrior.  Actually, legend has it that the volcanic funnel was said to be the forge where Vulcan crafted weapons for the gods.

 

Aeolian Island views

When to go to Vulcano and what to expect

Enjoy Vulcano at its best in springtime, between April and June, when it’s in full bloom and filled with the scent of jasmine and orange blossom. You might encounter a few showers but generally the weather is mild, and great for hiking and exploring.

During the summer months of July and August, the island comes alive with its vibrant summer scene festivals and cultural events. Beaches are packed with young people enjoying the summer vibes, and average daytime temperatures can soar up to the high 30°C’s.

The autumn months of September, October and November are ideal for both exploring and relaxing. The islands attract fewer crowds and cooler temperatures, but the sea remains a very pleasant temperature, hovering around 24°in October. This is one of my favourite times on Vulcano, at a time when it’s also very budget friendly. However, bear in mind that ferry services are less regular than during the summer months.

Winter on Vulcano is cool, wet and windy and we don’t recommend visiting during this period.

 

Vulcano in the sunshine , Aeolian Islands

Hiking on the Aeolian island of Vulcano

Vulcano’s rugged natural beauty is just waiting to be explored and hiking to the volcano crater is one of the best ways we know to do it!

 

View of volcano on Aeolian island of Vulcano

Hiking to the volcano crater

Hiking to the summit of the Gran Cratere Della Fossa volcano is the perfect way to begin your adventures on the Aeolian island of Vulcano.  With an elevation of 400 metres, the moderate hike requires a medium level of fitness but once you reach the summit, you’ll enjoy unparalleled views over the Aeolian archipelago.

You can hike it independently but bear in mind that the trail is subject to weathering and accidents do occasionally occur, although generally only when people go off piste. Walking poles and footwear can be rented locally. But hiking the volcano with an expert guide is more fun and a great way to learn more about life on the islands. We always combine our hike with a visit to a local cheese farm to stock up on the creamiest ricotta and cheeses produced by a herd of much-loved goats that graze freely on the slopes of the volcano.

If you prefer to focus on volcanoes, the nearby Centre of Vulcanology, open June to September and run by summer students, is a brilliant place to learn about the evolution, geography and geology of these fascinating islands and entrance is free.

Other hiking trails on Vulcano

There are a couple of other hiking trails that we’d recommend on Vulcano. The first is through the Valle di Roja.  The trail opens up from the eastern side of the base of the volcano, venturing into a long canyon which can be tricky. This is a challenging 3-hour walk which requires proper trekking gear, water and snacks, as well as an expert guide who is familiar with the terrain.

A slightly less challenging option is the Monte Saraceno circular trail which leads from the Vulcano Piano area. This is an easy walk of around two and a half hours, up to an elevation of just under 500m where you can enjoy 360° views. Alternatively, part of the trail can be accessed by car, with a 30 minute walk to the summit, a favourite at sunset!

Lastly, at Capo Grillo, a short walk along a tarmacked road through a eucalyptus forest leads to a panoramic look out point with spectacular views over Lipari and Salina, with the rest of the archipelago in the distance. To the right of the terrace, a short walk through a wooded area leads to a lovely spot for a picnic.

Mud baths and thermal springs

Vulcano is renowned for its thermal springs, hot mud baths and fumaroles. My first memories of Vulcano are of bathing under the stars and seeing the locals stroll down the street in their robes for their early morning ritual. Sadly, the mud baths beyond the port are closed for the moment due to high emissions of gas. These are continually being monitored.

The main thermal springs are at the Spiaggia delle Aqua Calda (also known as Spiaggia delle Fumarole or Vulcano’s thermal baths) in the black sand Baia di Levante. Here, underwater springs lie beneath cracks in the earth’s crust releasing warm milky water. Do wear an old swimsuit if you can: while you’ll emerge with wonderfully soft skin, it’s hard to get rid of the sulphurous smell on your swimsuit.

Vulcano’s beaches

All five of Vulcano’s beaches are characterised by fine black sand. The most popular is La Baia Negra, not least for its magical sunsets over Filicudi and the ‘faraglioni’ of Lipari. There’s lido style comfort in the form of umbrellas and sun bed rentals, alongside casual restaurants and kiosks during the summer season.

On the far side of the island, the small crescent of black sand that is Spiaggia dell’Asino also has a pizzeria and casual dining on the beach. Access is from the road above the beach from which a steep path descends. There is a shuttle jeep, but the most relaxing way to arrive is by boat. An occasional shuttle boat runs between Asino beach and Gelso. Gelso also has a beach, one that is becoming increasingly tiny thanks to shifting sands. You can get there by bus, boat or rented vehicle and take a refreshing dip in front of the Trattoria da Maniaci.

Lastly, Canitello beach on the far side of the island can be accessed on foot by a path leading through the Punta Aria winery or by boat. The beach has a kiosk with basic snacks.

 

Baia Negra black sand beach, Vulcano, Aeolian Islands

Water activities on Vulcano

Restricting yourself to activities on land means missing out on the translucent blue waters and jagged coastline that fringe Vulcano. To understand what makes these islands so special, you simply have to get out on the water.

Kayaking and paddle boarding are widely available and are a great option for families. Several locals run excellent daily trips and excursions.

Taking a boat trip with a local who knows the coastline inside out will introduce you to a world of hidden grottos and bays such as the Grotta del Cavallo or the Piscina del Venere, a natural sea pool with magical turquoise waters. Other trips take you across to Stromboli and across to other islands. Our advice is to try and avoid the weekends when there’s more sea traffic, particularly during high season.

If you know what you’re doing on the water, you can rent a rib. My favourite route is to head to Salina passing the famous ‘faraglioni’ of Lipari.

 

Boat travelling to the Aeolian Islands

Where to eat on Vulcano

The food scene on Vulcano is excellent, with everything from simple bars to Michelin-starred restaurants. My favourite are the family run restaurants such as Malvasia, a gorgeous informal open air venue with covered terrace run by two brothers. Choose between their ‘pane cunzatu’ topped with tuna, mozzarella, capers, tomatoes and basil, and their more formal menu which changes daily according to the catch of the day.

Just 6km from the port, Maria Tindara was one of the first restaurants in Vulcano. It opened in 1962 before the arrival of electric light on the island! Try Rosa’s homemade ‘tagliatelle alla vulcanara’, but don’t bother to ask how it’s made: the recipe has been a closely guarded family secret for over 60 years!

 

Pane cunzato, food and wine on the Aeolian Islands

Where to stay on Vulcano

Choose from a good selection of hotels, ranging from budget to five star. One of the most popular hotels on the island for couples and honeymooners is the Therasia Resort, a fabulous 5-star retreat with a superb spa, perched on the promontory of Vulcanello.

But sometimes, the most memorable stays are in the small, family-run hotels where you get the chance to chat to the owners and learn more about their life on the island. We love Hotel Orsa Maggiore, set just a short walk from the Ponente beach. Run by brother and sister Maria and Rodolfo, the hotel has a fabulous garden and pool, set against the backdrop of dramatic volcano views.

For families, we think Les Sables Noirs is a great option. Right on the black sand beach of Baia Negra, you can breakfast till late morning and enjoy some of the best sunsets on the Aeolian Islands from the vast panoramic terrace.

 

Hotel Les Sables Noirs, Vulcano

Hotel Les Sables Noirs, Vulcano

Top tips for visiting Vulcano

  • Book your travel to and from the islands several days in advance particularly during high season. Book accommodation in advance for high season to avoid disappointment. During low season, you’ll find more choice and more affordable prices.
  • You can rent vehicles on Vulcano, including cars, classic jeeps, scooters and quad bikes.
  • Take insect repellent, especially in September/October after the rain.
  • There’s one pharmacy and a medical centre (Guardia Medica) on the island. Both close in the afternoon for up to four hours. Emergencies are flown to Milazzo or Messina via helicopter.
  • Don’t miss the sunset from the Baia Negra.
  • Visit nearby islands. Vulcano is a good base for visiting Lipari (10 mins by hydrofoil) and Salina (40 -50 mins by hydrofoil). Throw in a trip to see the night time explosions from the Stromboli volcano – always a family favourite.
  • There’s a bus service through the middle of the island from the port to the end of the island and the tiny hamlet at Gelso. No roads circumnavigate the island.
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