
Aeolian Adventures
Welcome to Filicudi and Alicudi
Experience the wonder of nature on the remote western islands of Filicudi and Alicudi, the smallest in the archipelago. Wild and totally unspoilt, the islands offer the opportunity to immerse yourself in an extraordinary natural beauty. Capers and figs grow wild and the scent of wild fennel, mint and oregano fills the air. Electricity only arrived in Filicudi in 1986 and tourism on the island has grown slowly since then.
Away-from-it all Filicudi
Just 9sq km in size, Filicudi has three villages – Filicudi Porto, Valdichiesa and Pecorini a Mare – offering a small number of restaurants and beach bars where you can feast on fresh tuna and swordfish, pasta, sweet cherry tomatoes and capers. But the real draw is Filicudi’s natural attractions and away-from-it-all vibe. Private boat tours take you to swim in some of the island’s most beautiful coves, snorkel with marine biologists and observe sea turtles and dolphins; while on land, there are excursions on foot to learn about the island’s fauna and flora.
The best way to explore Filicudi’s rocky coastline is by boat. Drift past La Canna, a 70m high sea stack that juts out of the dazzling blue sea, and through the clear waters of the Bue Marino cave.
Herb-lined mule tracks provide the ideal territory for trekking. Climb to the peak of the now extinct Fossa Dei Felci volcano for wonderful views over neighbouring islands. Elsewhere, there are rugged pathways overgrown with wild flowers and herbs which lead to more secluded bays littered with gleaming shells. Visit the tiny fishing port of Pecorini a Mare and, in the south of the island, the Neolithic village of Capo Graziano which houses the ruins of around thirty circular huts.
Nature at its best on Alicudi
The natural paradise island of Alicudi is even smaller, a 675m extinct volcanic cone which rises from the sea. Although inhabited since prehistoric times, today much of the island is uninhabited and, in the absence of roads and streets, the population of under 150 relies on donkeys for transport. It has a pretty harbour, dotted with fishing boats.
The western slopes of the island are steep and largely inaccessible so any of the essentially cuboid island homes are on the eastern side. Rough stone mule paths that lead up the former volcano are the only way to explore. If you’re feeling energetic, these weave all the way to the former crater at the summit of Monte Filo dell’Arpa, past a patchwork of terraced fields and tiny churches, providing superb views of neighbouring Filicudi.
How long should I spend on Filicudi and Alicudi?
Some visitors choose to take a one-day trip to Filicudi from Lipari, allowing enough time to visit some of the hideaway hamlets and climb Filicudi’s volcano. For the best experience, we would recommend staying a couple of nights on Filicudi to soak up the atmosphere and taking a boat trip across to Alicudi for the day.
Eating and drinking on Filicudi and Alicudi
Bars and small-scale restaurants are generally rustic and low-key, often the restaurants of small hotels, serving dishes prepared with the islands’ homegrown ingredients, seafood and food imported from Sicily. Specialities include spaghetti with almonds. Don’t expect a menu but do expect the freshest home-cooked food.
Getting to Filicudi and Alicudi
Ferry services run from the other Aeolian Islands to both islands but they can be infrequent. Because of their western location, they can also be accessed via hydrofoil services from Palermo and Cefalù in Sicily. There are also direct services from Milazzo and Messina in Sicily, and from Reggio Calabria on the mainland.
Hotels on Filicudi and Alicudi
There are no modern hotels on either island and a limited number of eateries. However, Filicudi has a small number of tiny boutique hotels and guesthouses that provide a wonderful insight into the island. You’ll also find several privately owned villas available for rent.